Bicycling In Macedonia

by jpc_touring-bicycle

After having spent two weeks in Skopje, Macedonia, I cycled east and out of the town. With no correct map, I made a mistaken flip virtually instantly. After practically an hour’s price of biking I lastly realized I had ventured too far south… and if I continued on the highway I used to be touring, I might quickly wind up in the course of nowhere.

At a small village bus station I approached a person of 30 who was standing on the curb and ready for the bus.  I requested if he might converse English and he might… fairly nicely in reality! He stated that I wanted to show left about one tenth of a mile up the highway and climb over a small hill earlier than venturing throughout an extended filth highway that will deliver me again to the highway he believed I wanted to be on. I thanked the person after which adopted his instructions, turning left on the subsequent highway, climbing a small steep hill, and rolling onto an extended filth highway that stretched off into the horizon.

Biking on filth roads is usually one thing I attempt to keep away from, however right here in the course of Macedonia, the place drivers generally is a bit psychotic, I used to be glad to lastly be on a path that was site visitors free. After a brief distance the highway cut up in two instructions and I picked the route that went to the left.

As I cycled on, the highway turned increasingly troublesome to trip throughout. There have been big waves within the highway the place the filth had been pushed down after which thrust again up upon itself. As I cycled over wave after wave of filth and rock, I discovered myself having fun with the trip greater than another a part of my European journey up to now. It was like browsing, however on a bicycle, in one-hundred diploma warmth.

Ultimately the highway ended and I hit the freeway. I turned to the suitable and cycled south alongside a small frontage highway that lined the Macedonian freeway. For just a few miles I adopted this lengthy, windy highway because it handed by means of acres of farmland, hills, and filth. In a single space, a complete area was crammed with yellow sunflowers, making for just a few spectacularly memorable moments.


However then, simply when biking in Macedonia appeared to be too simple, the highway got here to an finish as I used to be pressured right into a small city. As soon as once more, I discovered some folks hanging out on the bus cease and requested them for instructions. They stated that I couldn’t trip by means of the town with out crossing over a collection of huge hills, in order that they recommended I proceed south on the freeway.

“Are you positive?” I requested them. “Am I allowed to trip my bicycle on the freeway?”

They insisted it could be okay. I, after all, was skeptical. However with no different selection, I jumped on the shoulder-less freeway and cycled south.

Fortunate for me, the freeway was comparatively flat and there have been few vehicles darting down the 2 lane highway.

I’ve spent appreciable quantities of time driving my bike on the freeway, so this was nothing new, however freeway driving isn’t one thing I significantly take pleasure in. With vehicles dashing previous at extremely excessive speeds you’ve acquired to pay attention to your environment. I used my helmet mounted mirror to look at for approaching vehicles and vans and used each freeway pullout as a possibility to cease, catch my breath and rehydrate.


About 10 miles down the freeway I occurred upon a speed-trap, the place Macedonian police had been positioned beside the highway to look at for dashing motorists. As I pulled up on my bike, I knew I might both cycle previous with out incident or I might discover myself in a heap of bother for driving my gradual shifting bicycle on the quickest highway in all of Macedonia.

To my shock, the police didn’t say a factor as I cycled up. As I approached, I pulled my bike over and stated good day. One of many officers spoke good English and I requested him if was okay that I trip on the freeway. He stated it was not an issue. Actually, he recommended I trip on the freeway your complete approach to Thessaloníki (Greece). I, nevertheless, had totally different plans. Nonetheless, I thanked the officer and continued on my manner.

Tip: If you’re ever not sure as as to if or not you need to be driving on a specific highway, simply ask the native authorities. Since they’re those you’ll get in bother with in case you are mistaken in your assumptions, they’re normally the very best folks to ask. Don’t at all times belief the locals. Take their recommendation into consideration, however don’t at all times belief it.

After 30 miles of freeway driving I took the exit and turned east on a small two-land highway. I instantly hit a hill and took my time climbing the sucker. On the high, a bus had pulled to the aspect of the highway and its passengers had been standing round simply exterior the door of the large white car. As I cycled up the passengers stared at me and my unusual purple bicycle. A person round my similar age (25) known as at me in damaged English and requested me what I used to be doing right here in the course of Macedonia on such a wierd wanting bicycle. I informed him all about my journey and what I used to be doing… and he appeared fairly impressed.

“For somebody like me, that is very attention-grabbing,” he defined.

I wanted the passengers luck as I waved goodbye and cycled down the highway whereas they waited for a brand new bus to come back and decide them up. I might see them later (about three hours later to be precise) as they zoomed by me in a model new bus.


cycling-macedonia-folding bicycle-empty-street

It was getting darkish now and I wanted to discover a place to spend the evening. I handed a small resort, nevertheless it appeared abandoned and scary, so I cycled on, on the lookout for a spot to camp as a substitute.

At sundown, I discovered a big patch of timber and moments after a cop handed by in his patrol automotive, I jumped off the bike and carried it off into the timber.

It was a tree farm of some variety and there have been rows and rows of timber stretching from the highway to far up into the hills. I climbed up about 8 rows of timber after which pitched my tent in a darkish secluded space the place I ventured it could be troublesome to be discovered.

I’ve had some nice stealth tenting areas over time, however this was the most effective. Because the solar set, the climate was good and I had a terrific evening’s sleep out underneath the celebs.



Within the morning I used to be stunned to listen to a automotive pull up exterior my tent and voices mumbling off within the distance. In some way, in opposition to all odds, a pair driving a small blue compact automotive has pulled off into the tree farm for a morning make out session and so they had parked their automotive not more than 50 toes from my tent. I don’t suppose they noticed me at first, however as I started taking down my tent and packing up my bike, I assume they noticed me. Fortunate for me, the couple by no means stated something and after packing up my bike I rolled out onto the road and continued on my manner.

It was one other sizzling day in Macedonia and even with 4.5 liters of water on my bike, I nonetheless discovered myself feeling a bit dehydrated. Fortunately there have been a collection of well-spaced gasoline stations alongside the highway I used to be touring and I’d cease at nearly each one to purchase a brand new bottle of water (and generally an ice cream cone or two). All day lengthy I’d cycle on for a brief distance after which duck right into a gasoline station to re-hydrate and re-fuel. The roads had been flat, the biking was nice, and the vehicles had been few.


Earlier than leaving Skopje, I had been informed time and time once more that this space of Macedonia was nothing however mountains and that driving a bicycle by means of these elements can be practically unimaginable. However right here I used to be, not solely making nice progress, however having the time of my life. It was, fairly actually, the very best bike driving I had performed over the previous few months.

There was one lengthy hill I needed to climb, nevertheless it wasn’t steep. I didn’t even must drop into my lowest gear. Plus, the climb was wedged between two steep cliffs, which shaded me from the solar, protecting me cool and relaxed. As I reached the highest of the go I appeared again and laughed. “Is that each one you bought?” I believed to myself.


Close to the tip of the day I cycled into the town of Strumica. On the map it appeared like a tiny village, however in actuality it was an entire lot larger than that. It was early sufficient within the day that I might have stored biking if I had chosen to, however the place appeared good, so I made a decision to cease and discover a place to remain.

After just a few failed conversations with the locals, I lastly discovered a resort on the town’s japanese aspect and booked a room for 20 Euros. I locked my bike to the black metallic gate behind the resort and checked right into a small, clear resort room on the second ground. Strumica was my residence… for the evening not less than.

Extra about Strumica and the remainder of my adventures in Macedonia shall be posted in an upcoming article. Keep tuned…


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